At first glance, this appears to be yet another wine bar in a neighborhood that already has plenty of them, complete with its inevitable display of naturalist bottles, vintage tableware and small plates sold for the price of a healthy kidney on the black market…. But upon closer inspection, you’ll discover a true gem, founded by Frédéric Lesire and Jonathan Schweizer, who already run the extraordinary Café Les Deux Gares. Rather than filling their shop with overhyped labels, they’ve built a collection of aged and vintage treasures (Neck, a 2017 Grenache from Sylvain Bock; Persanne, a 2011 Mondeuse from François Grinand; a 2016 Pinot Gris from the Domaine Schueller…), made even better by plates that appear to have been thrown together but are taken to surprising heights through some extremely precise jus and reductions: stunning deep sea clams enriched by a Savagnin sauce; scallops plunged into an oxidative coulis with crushed hazelnuts; impeccable herring and potato salad under a veil of shaved citron; reinvigorating barley risotto with truffles; and an adorable rice pudding infused with bay leaf. // Gwen Jacquère
FEELING THIRSTY? Low-intervention wines and expert advice from Fiola Lecuyer, the former boss of Brutal: Double Aveugle, a Cabernet franc from Clément Poirel (€6 a glass), Roue Libre, a Gamay from Hervé Pavera (€40 a bottle), Sans Titre, an Altesse from Caroline Ledédenté (€45)…
PRICE: Small plates €4-20.
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