Café Les Deux Gares

Café Les Deux Gares (Paris)

© Agathe Hernandez

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Say goodbye to Au Train de Vie and hello to the Café Les Deux Gares! While waiting for the hotel of the same name to open back in September of 2019, Adrien Gloaguen, the boss of the Touriste group (the Panache, Bienvenue and Beaurepaire hotels….), entrusted this old bistro located above the Gare de l’Est train station to Frédéric Lesire, a former bar manager. He turned it into a well-oiled machine (an ornate bar, blond wooden tables, Thonet chairs), where Jonathan Schweizer (ex-Sauvage) and Federico Suárez (ex-Loca) send some striking plates out of the kitchen. The night we went: incredible whelks with an herby mayonnaise; outstanding Albacore tuna from Saint-Jean-de-Luz served raw with quartered apricots, spring onions and a nasturtium oil; ultra-tender Iberian pork with roasted heirloom carrots, blackcurrant jam and berries; before a refreshing lovage sorbet served with meringue and cucumber ribbons. It’s worth noting that the weekday lunch menu is full of exciting possibilities (eg..: leeks in redcurrant vinaigrette; cod with pil-pil sauce and pointy cabbage; fior di latte and olive oil ice cream), and you can also order a coffee or a snack at any time of day – anchovies in oil, pâté en croûte, deviled eggs… // Anna Samaha

FEELING THIRSTY? 100% natural wines: a Rhone Gamay from Michel Guignier (€5.50 a glass), a Roussillon Syrah from Pierre-Nicolas Massotte (€28 a bottle), an Ardèche Viognier from the Croiziers (€37)…

PRICE: Set menus €18-23 (weekday lunch), plates €6-20 (dinner and Saturday lunch), snacks €5-10.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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