Cellar

Les Caves Saint Martin

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Antoine Gueguen took over this discreet neighborhood wine shop in 2008 to turn it into a treasure chest of biodynamic and natural wines at reasonable prices. His personal approach? Hand-picking wines made by young winemakers, like Julien Klein in Alsace (Kentza, a Pinot gris, Pinot blanc and Auxerrois blend sold at €15 a bottle), the French-Japanese couple Keiko Araki and Jérôme Deleuze near Albi (Degré de Liberté, a Jurançon noir wine for €14), or even the Domaine Les Cascades in the Corbières (an orange wine for €17). Of the other 400 labels, you can leave with an ultra-fresh Jura Trousseau from the Domaine du Tausson for €14, a price that has unfortunately become rare for this type of wine. // Eric Taylor 

The bullet-proof bottle: Greta Carbo, a Loire Cabernet franc from Sébastien Bobinet (€36). 

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