From behind the waxed concrete bar, a big wooden wave washes over well-dressed night owls. The night we went, the folks behind the bar shook us up a custom concoction (Strega liqueur + cherry Maurin + nutmeg-infused Pisco and Salers gentiane for a twist on the Mezcalian Pa’Dentro, €13) and they improvised, Rat-Pack-style, a Blanton’s bourbon Negroni with artichoke liqueur! Expect the same boldness when it comes to the food: asparagus with an egg yolk and a golden sesame cream; tender lamb chops over goat cheese agnolotti pasta; palourde clams with squid ink gnocchi; and for those with a sweet tooth, a comforting cream puff filled with chocolate whipped cream and a pistachio cream (€9). The house also has a carefully crafted selection of wines: a white Alsace, Nature, from Patrick Meyer (€7 a glass), an organic Ardèche Merlot, La Vrille et le Papillon (€40 a bottle), etc. Cocktails €13, mocktails €8, dishes €10-15, desserts €9. // N.K.