Feeling slightly cramped in her adorable, marine-inspired spot on Rue de Lancry, which seats at most 20 guests, Olive Davoux moved her flagship establishment to Rue de Marseille, just a short stroll from the original location. But that doesn’t mean the first Sur Mer has been left high and dry, as the chef continues to helm the ship, now rebranded as Le Comptoir sur Mer, with a stronger focus on impeccably sourced shellfish. What should you expect? Oysters from Monsieur Jean-Paul in Normandy, steamed palourde clams from the Camargue, Galician sea urchins and langoustines from Guilvinec, all beautifully arranged on seafood platters (served all day long) and paired with tangy Thai nahm jim sauce and Bordier seaweed butter… Plus a few more elaborate dishes, like the umami-packed Capbreton sea bass carpaccio topped with radicchio, limequat and trout roe, as well as desserts that’ll bring you back to dry land – think chocolate ganache with poached pear and walnuts (a touch rustic for our taste). Our mood is always blissfully buoyant on Rue de Lancry! · Herber Martin

FEELING THIRSTY? A few treasures fill this ship’s hold: Aussigouins, an Anjou chenin from Dominique Dufour (€10.50 a glass), Marin D’Eau Douce, an Aveyron white produced by Pauline Broqua (€35 a bottle), Empreinte 2020, an Alsatian pinot noir produced by Catherine Riss (€39), or a pineau d’Aunis by Zoé and Thierry Puzelat (€41).
PRICE: Shellfish €6-15, oysters €8-20, fish €14 to €25.50, desserts €7.50.