Sur Mer

Olive Davoux firmly stays on course at this small, tiled, windowed, wooden spot that’s a stone’s throw from the Canal Saint-Martin. The other night, the Belgian-Ugandan chef (who trained at Le Verre Volé and L’Ecailler du Bistrot) put her sublime touch on small catch seafood: vivifying clams from Utah Beach steamed with ponzu sauce and served with fermented blackberries; an incredible ceviche of pollack from Saint-Jean-de-Luz with chilies and tiger’s milk; skate drizzled in a bean vinaigrette, with Mexican tarragon and quartered figs from the Drôme department; before the only dessert on the menu, rhubarb doused in a geranium syrup and whipped cream. There are also shellfish platters served à la carte at lunch or sold to go. // T.V.X.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are a few treasures below deck: a macerated Catalan white from Els Vinyerons (€7.50 a glass), Semaine 16, a Jura white from Valentin Morel (€45 a bottle), Loup des Vignes, an Auvergne Gamay from Benoît Rosenberger (€42)…

PRICE: Plates €13-17, shellfish €9-16, oysters €16-20 for six, desserts €6.