Mussels from Noirmoutier, oysters from Utah Beach, sardines from Saint-Guénolé, tuna from Saint-Jean-de-Luz, whelks from Mont Saint-Michel… Olive Davoux firmly stays the course at this small, tiled, windowed, wood-clad spot that’s a stone’s throw from the Canal Saint-Martin. The last time we went, the Belgian-Ugandan chef (who trained at L’Ecailler du Bistrot) pulled all of the following out of her fishing nets: a marinière of palourde clams from Camargue with delicately diced turnips; raw sliced scallops served in their shell; roasted and pearly white John Dory; spectacular slow-roasted octopus… Also available à la carte and to go, there are platters of shellfish and other carefully-sourced briny treats, which are always paired with hair-raising condiments: homemade teriyaki sauce, churned seaweed butter (with dulse, nori and sea lettuce), nam jim sauce… // Jean Pascal

FEELING THIRSTY? There are a few treasures below deck: a Roussillon roussanne from Le Bout du Monde (€6.50 a glass), an Entraygues white from Pauline Broqua (€32 a bottle), a pineau d’Aunis from the Puzelats (€41), a tavel from Éric Pfifferling (€45)…
PRICE: Plates €12.50 to €25.50, shellfish €6-12 (lunch), €12-21 (dinner), desserts €7.50.