restaurant

Sur Mer

Sur Mer (Paris)

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Olive Davoux firmly stays on course at this small, tiled, windowed, wooden spot that’s a stone’s throw from the Canal Saint-Martin. The other night, the Belgian-Ugandan chef (who trained at Le Verre Volé and L’Ecailler du Bistrot) put her sublime touch on small catch seafood: vivifying clams from Utah Beach steamed with ponzu sauce and served with fermented blackberries; an incredible ceviche of pollack from Saint-Jean-de-Luz with chilies and tiger’s milk; skate drizzled in a bean vinaigrette, with Mexican tarragon and quartered figs from the Drôme department; before the only dessert on the menu, rhubarb doused in a geranium syrup and whipped cream. There are also shellfish platters served à la carte at lunch or sold to go. // T.V.X.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are a few treasures below deck: a macerated Catalan white from Els Vinyerons (€7.50 a glass), Semaine 16, a Jura white from Valentin Morel (€45 a bottle), Loup des Vignes, an Auvergne Gamay from Benoît Rosenberger (€42)…

PRICE: Plates €13-17, shellfish €9-16, oysters €16-20 for six, desserts €6.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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