Le Verre Volé
Le Fooding Guide’s 2001 Best cave à manger
With almost two decades under its belt, this institutional cave à manger on Rue de Lancry continues to send out impressive plates to match its stock of 100% natural bottles, unearthed by Cyril Bordarier and Thomas Vincente. On the prix-fixe lunch menu the day we went: a lively jack mackerel ceviche from the Île d’Yeu, with a touch of tiger’s milk, avocado, sweet chili, pomegranate and chili oil – or beef carpaccio from the Perche, with buffalo mozzarella, bell pepper brunoise and pickled onions; beautiful line-caught sea bream from Saint-Guénolé, perfectly roasted and served whole with spelt risotto, trumpet zucchini, goat cheese faisselle and black sesame – or a classic homemade boudin noir served with purée; before a pretty decent fig far Breton cake with raw cream for dessert. // O.J.
FEELING THIRSTY? Impressive natural wines: a Gard white from the Domaine Mouressipe (€6.50 a glass), an Ardèche red from Jérome Jouret (€32 a bottle), a Mâcon-Villages from Philippe Valette or an Arbois white from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€45)…
PRICE: Menu €19-22 (weekday lunch), à la carte €37-49.