Le Verre Volé
Le Fooding Guide’s 2001 Best cave à manger
Of all the apostles of natural wine, Cyril Bordarier is an old veteran inside this ruby-red dive opened in 2000, which is a tireless landing stage for beautiful bottles and tasty treats. The other day at lunch, served by a team of young wolves with uninhibited attitudes, there were some wild plates: vigorous Perche duck foie gras topped with onion compote – or fried yellow eel with tandoori-spiced ricotta (€13.50); hake in a new potato salad with tartare sauce (€21) – or, for a relentless classic, homemade boudin noir with puréed potatoes (€17); before an honest apple crumble (€6) or a plate of farm-fresh camembert from Les Champs secrets, Picodon from the Ardèche and summer sheep’s milk cheese from Grégoire Lauga (€9). As for the drinks, there are almost too many choices: a Côtes-du-Rhône Flonflons from Antoine and Laurence Joly (€6.50 a glass), a tantalizing organic Côtes-d’Auxerre Chardonnay from Edouard Lepesme (€28) + a Beaujolais 2016 from Yvon Métras (€35). À la carte €33-46. // N.K.