Restaurant Casimir (Paris)

© Charlotte Leforestier

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Chez Casimir is dead, long live Casimir! By taking over the former kingdom of bistronomic pleasures ruled by Thierry Breton, Pierre Mouquet (Bonvivant, Goguette) and the Vertigo Family were determined to shake things up. Of course, the decor has lost some of its luster (light wood tables, wicker armchairs, cement tiles), but their associate chef Eduardo González (who’s also had a hand in Bonvivant and Jaja) knows how to keep the plates as authentic as possible. Proof came the other night, seated on a corner of the terrace, with flavor-packed roast pork sliced thin and generously adorned with a creamy, anchovy-packed tonnato sauce, cumin chimichurri and caper berries – devoured while eyeballing the feta croquettes topped with garlic confit mayo that made quite the impression on our tablemate… who then agreed to share some of the incredibly tender slices of beef Wellington with its soft flaky pastry crust, customized with a side of romaine lettuce in César salad dressing; followed by a delightful swirl of dulce de leche soft serve ice cream, sprinkled with cacao and walnut crumble topping. // Scotty Lard

FEELING THIRSTY? : Plenty of options so you can raise a (low-intervention) glass: Éclat De Granite, a Roanne gamay from the Domaine Sérol (€6 a glass), La Colline Aux Cailloux, an Alsatian blend from François Schmitt (€34 a bottle), a 2021 Volnay produced by Michel Lafarge (€95)… and quite a few digestifs, including an aged plum brandy from the Distillerie Metté (€12 for 40 ml).
PRICE: : Set menu €24 (weekday lunch), à la carte €41-76.

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