Is our collective obsession with “Neapolitan” pizzas with fluffy crusts and generous toppings (finally) over? In any case, the pizzeria from the guys at Bonvivant (their bistro is located right across the street) might begin to answer that question… In this chic cabana (charred wood, a lightning-flash-shaped mirror, alabaster pedestal tables), the pizz’ are made with a sort of biblical simplicity: thin and crispy dough prepared using organic flour and matured for three days, topped with organic tomato sauce and carefully sourced produce. Choose between five classic and five seasonal options, like the excellent “Coin du feu” (fior di latte, sausage and squash, €15), picked over a tempting Carbo (guanciale, pecorino, €15). Our only complaint are the Left Bank prices, with a Margherita at 11 bucks and the classics (Regina, Piquante) hovering around 15 euros. To quench your thirst, natural Italian nectars take center stage: a nice Negroamaro from Progetto Calcarius (€6 a glass), a sparkling Sicilian white Voria from La Porta del Vento (€34 a bottle), a Don Chisciotte from Campania (€49), etc. Pizza €11-16. // V.V.