The great William Ledeuil (Ze Kitchen Galerie, KGB) is once again spreading his well-traveled pastafarinism in his third modernist spot (electric blue benches, terrazzo tables, works by Daniel Humair…). In the kitchen, chef Pandora Métayer (ex-Coutanceau and KGB) brings heirloom wheats from the Aude miller Roland Feuillas on a first-class flight to Asia. For us, the night we went: a sunny tomato/cilantro/watermelon gazpacho; addictive buckwheat casarecce with grilled octopus, topped with a tomato-ginger velouté and yuzu kosko – a condiment made from chili and yuzu rind; tender spelt wheat puntalette prepared as a risotto in a rich lemongrass broth, with chunks of chicken and cubed fennel; before a bowl of sweet poached nectarines topped with verbena yogurt sorbet. // A.B.
FEELING THIRSTY? An eclectic collection of wines: a Loire Sauvignon-blanc from the Famille Bourgeois (€10 a glass), an organic Rhone red from Adrien Roustan (€38 a bottle), a Languedoc white from La Villa Dordona (€42)…
PRICE: Menu €29-34 (weekday lunch), à la carte €44-49.
