Pépites

Paris’ well-to-do 6th arrondissement continues its slow march towards the low intervention way with the arrival of sommelier Thibault Duval (ex-Carte des Vins) on Rue de Buci, who’s well placed for making his mark among Saint-Germain’s solid institutions. After refining his skills at Carte des Vins, the proprietor took time out to zig-zag across France to unearth some 1,500 organic-naturist wines, which now sit patiently in his cozy wine shop-cum-bar combining beams, rubble stone walls, aged wood and zellige tiles. Talking of the bottles, any gems? Let’s just say there’s a mix between the great classics (L’Enclume Du Rhodanien, a crafty Syrah-Gamay from Simon Gastrein, €32, or Cuvée Du Professor, a serious Savagnin by François Rousset-Martin, €67), lesser-known libations (Trompe l’Ennui, a juicy Braucol from La Pierre Levée in the Tarn, €19) and bubbles galore (Ventu Ventu, a brut rosé made from Roussillon Gamay, €36). Pop a bottle open and enjoy at the marble-topped bar or on a sofa in the vaulted basement (€10 corkage fee), paired with a cheese board with stinkers sourced from Iroma or smalls plates gracefully put together by Betty Kaümle – tuna rillettes with capers and pink peppercorn, roasted peppers and fresh ricotta, etc. Good to know: there are monthly wine tastings hosted by the winegrowers. // Jackie Pépite

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Schist and Quartzite, a Burgundy melon vinified by Les Pierres Meslières (€18).