A cheese shop that offers you the world on a platter – that’s the promise made by C.O.W. (which stands for “Cheese of the world”). Refined by Alexandre Renault and Antoine Farge, this ambitiously stinky concept owes everything to their partnership: the former is a certified cheesemonger (Abondance in London, Beaufils in Paris), the latter, an entrepreneur and big-time foodie. And their small business was unaffected by the financial crisis, with its lovely terrace, backroom for tastings and mischievous aging cellars, all of which will soon be complemented by their very own production laboratory. But best of all are the 80 well-traveled cheeses: the crème de la crème of British and American cheddars (€38 to €42.90/kg), amarelo tomme dancing the fado (€34.90), gouda made with goat milk from the vikings (€42.90)… Give us the world, or give us nothing at all! // Elina Pavik

THE HIDDEN GEM: An explosively flavorful raw milk peppercorn tomme cheese (€39.90/kg).