As the master of this zen temple (mouse-grey cement, Scandi furniture, Danish ceramics by Gurli Elbækgaard), Japanese chef Atsushi Takana (ex-Gagnaire and Quinque Dacosta) transcribes his graphically appealing, minimalist obsessions into some utterly delicate dishes. The night we went, the €115 menu was a fine demonstration of this: marinated calamari tagliatelle with a lovage mayonnaise under a sorrel granita; incredibly simple tagliatelle doused in their cooking water and titillated with marigold buds; ultra-tender tourteau crab in a tonka bean broth, paired with a carrot purée; an impressive marinated salmon and basil purée combo under a tousle of parsley tuiles and a fromage blanc granita; tender mussels in marjoram pesto with crisp haricots verts; a powerful Breton lobster with figs in a fig leaf bisque; red mullet fillet with a briny broth, crispy fried scales and a pepper compote; pink pigeon with a rich smoked jus, rhubarb, pigeon foot with a violet flower breadcrumb and a shot of pigeon bone broth; before a sublime baked plum with a lemon balm granita, followed by a stunning beetroot ice cream seasoned with Timut pepper. Pure poetry! Worth mentioning: Atsushi offers up a tantalizing seven-course menu at lunch. // A.B.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a huge selection of powerful organic wines to choose from: a Burgundy white from Amaury Beaufort (€13 a glass), Italian sparkling wine from Piana dei Castelli (€44 a bottle), a Rhone red from Daniel Sage (€50), a Sarthe red from Jean-Pierre Robinot (€95)…
PRICE: Tasting menus €70 (lunch) and €130.
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