Brushed concrete walls, misaligned industrial lamps, big light wooden tables by Norwegian designers Sarg&Bein… Welcome to Atsushi Tanaka’s contemporary den! Having sharpened his knives and his vision under Gagnaire in Paris and Quiqui Dacosta in Alicante, he now unveils his abstract works on artistic minimalist plates at A.T. For this edible exhibition, we dined on: sublime crisp and colorful leeks that had been infused with beetroot for three weeks; an adorable chanterelles and oregano blossom tartelette; deliciously briny spider crab in a tonka bean broth with pickled and puréed carrots; marinated mackerel lying in wait under parsley and charcoal tuiles, with a fromage blanc and juniper granita; creamy spelt wheat risotto with Comté, thinly sliced fresh porcini and a few mussels; an understated and rather pink pigeon with breaded feet; before a fig composition for the finale (compote, ice cream and tart). // Elena Di Benedetto
FEELING THIRSTY? There are a few precious references divulged out loud, like the Austrian red from Preisinger (€12 a glass), a pet’ nat’ from Beaufort (€11) and the entirely organic Mas del Ils from Jordi Estebe (€60 a bottle).
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus at lunch for €55 and dinner for €105 (with pairings at €30 and €70).