After sharpening his knives at 6 Paul Bert and A.T, then blowing up the small screen on Top Chef France, Thomas Chisholm took over the kitchens of what used to be the restaurant Bel Ordinaire. Nowadays, the energetic chef and his enthusiastic team are hard at work in the open kitchen (with a massive neon sign hanging above it), sending out ceramic plates made by Simone Loo and Karla Sutra. The other night, they brought Brooklyn and Perpignan together in the most mouthwatering way: a delicious three-part ceviche (start by licking the holy trinity of salt / sugar / chili, then drink the electrifyingly flavorful jus, before devouring the pollack tartare plated over a slice of lime); sensational mi-cuit trout, paired with chard in beurre blanc and elderblossom, pimped out with chive oil – unless you opt for roasted venison with whole carrots and a rich savory-infused jus; before the classic American campfire dessert, a s’more made using a crispy biscuit, barberry-infused marshmallow and chocolate shavings, all titillated by verjus and ground pine needles. // Albert Gredinbar
FEELING THIRSTY? 400 labels of organic, biodynamic or natural wine sleep peacefully in the cellar (which you can visit!): a Muscadet from Jo Landron (€8 a glass), a Saumur red by Jonathan Maunoury (€39 a bottle), or, if you’re not too concerned about the bill, a Pommard premier cru produced by Nicolas Rossignol (€280).
PRICE: Plates €10-19.