Welcome to Il Camino, a high-flying bistro-trattoria nestled inside an old bird shop that used to house the Da Graziella pizzeria. In other words, it’s a small spot tucked away between Déviant and Vivant 2, with sublime ceramic tiling by Gilardoni, cinematic white tablecloths and a well-dressed crowd, all illuminated by candlelight and the kitchen flames tended to by Nicholas Traina and Alfonso Iannuzzi – who used to work at Le collier de la reine. Savored while listening to a syrupy Italian soundtrack the night we went: stunning braised artichoke sprinkled with lemony herbs and copious amounts of bottarga; delicious smoky carrots wearing red pesto war paint – sun-dried tomatoes, pecorino and pine nuts; mesmerizing homemade tagliatelle with a full-bodied Neapolitan tomato ragù, combining slow-roasted beef, veal and lamb rump; before a highly-anticipated (and no less impressive) family-style tiramisu. Keep an eye on the bill though, which can quite literally fly away from you if you’re not careful… // Renaud Fuego

FEELING THIRSTY? A squadron of transalpine wines (the prices can rocket sky high too): Sassaia, a Venetian white from Angiolino Maule (€11 a glass), Simposio, a Piedmont red from Valdisole (€14), Le Mie Origini, a Sicilian Catarratto from Alessandro Viola (€92 a bottle)…
PRICE: À la carte €44-71.