Best sophistroquet of 2018
This place has nothing to do with Mark Oliver Everett’s California rock band. Adrien Ferrand simply chose the same name as it happened to be graffitied on the peacock blue façade of this sophisticated bistro (wicker-backed chairs, ENOstudio suspension lamps, thin columns made of rough iron…). Standing between the kitchen and the bar, the young chef (ex-Kitchen Galerie Bis) perfects the carefully dressed creations on his €29 menu: white asparagus with melted scarmoza, glistening with a bergamot vinaigrette – or the emblematic smoked eel lit up with an apple-hazelnut sauce vierge, revisited with beets and cranberries; a striking veal chop dressed in lardo di Colonnata and anchovies, paired with purple artichokes – or yellow pollack cooked skin side down on the plancha, and then slow-roasted in the oven and topped with a sancho peppercorn infusion; before a pistachio-almond millefeuille that was extra comforting. To stay hydrated: a Touraine-Amboise, Le Clocher, from Bonnigal-Bodet (€7 a glass), a Marsannay from the Domaine de Sylvain Pataille (€10) or a Santenay premier cru from the Domaine Uliz (€66 a bottle). Menus €25-29 (weekday lunch), tasting menu €58 (+€32 for food and wine pairings), à la carte €55-62. // N.K.