Best sophistroquet of 2018
Adrien Ferrand (ex-KGB) sends out some solid gold dishes from inside his classy joint (unfinished walls, a peacock blue façade, modern furniture and light fixtures)! The other day at lunch, carried out of the kitchen by top-notch staff (worthy of Federer!), his lunch menu was all aces: an artistic mosaic of smoked eel (the house’s trademark), licorice, Granny Smith apple brunoise and a hazelnut sabayon; sublime roasted Iberian pork with (ro)coco de Paimpol beans, beautiful chanterelles, taramasalata and sea beans, all in a spicy coconut broth; and colorful mirabelle and damson plums dressed over a round of dacquoise and anointed with plum and shiso infused water for dessert. // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Classy options: a Vin-des-Allobroges white, Un P’tit Coin de Paradis, from Dominique Lucas (€8 a glass); a Mondeuse from Savoie, Quintessence, from the Domaine des Orchis (€51 a bottle); an Austrian Chardonnay from Andreas Tscheppe (€79)…
PRICE: Menus €28-32 (weekday lunch) and €64 (food and wine pairings + €34), à la carte €52-69.