Eels (Paris)

© Jeanne Le Louarn

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Given the breadth of his talent, it’s no wonder that Adrien Ferrand (ex-KGB) was so quickly rediscovered in his hideaway that reflects all the current design trends (bare walls, atmospheric suspension lamps, an open kitchen). The day we went for lunch, the young chef impressed us once again with his tasting menu composed of five culinary slaps to the face (€64): his exhilarating signature smoked eel, decked out with a siphoned toasted butter sabayon and a granny smith apple and hazelnut sauce verge with notes of licorice; marinated Albacore tuna bulldozed by a villainously good beef cecina, hypnotic ajo blanco (a chilled almond and breadcrumb soup), pickled greengage plums and a ginger-soy reduction; pearly white Breton perch with grilled melon for a sunny touch, an anise/melon vinaigrette, haricots verts playing Mikado and a mussel cream; grilled Basque veal belly with browned butter, cumin-spiced corn, cucumber, pepper and harissa; before an atomic white chocolate tuile with a cardamom cream, plum and umeboshi marmalade and a marzipan round. It’s worth noting that there’s a more affordable lunch menu served during the week, featuring all the same dishes (but fewer of them). // M.J.-D.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s nothing fishy going on here, just a whole load of stunners stocked under the floorboards: a Chignin from the Domaine Céline Jacquet (€8 a glass), a Bergerac white from the Château Barouillet, a Jura red from the Domaine Overnoy (€42 for beach bottle).

PRICE: Tasting menus €29-34 (weekday lunch) and €64 (food and wine pairings +€38), à la carte €52-69.

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