Taco Mesa

Orange is the new miam

Restaurant Taco Mesa (Paris)

© Guillaume Ombreux

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Fine-tuned for takeaway orders during the Covid era, the Mexican treats by Beatriz Gonzalez (Neva Cuisine, Coretta), Matthieu Marcant (her husband) and Alexis Bouyer (who used to work at Coretta and Cheval Blanc) have found a new mesa! And what a restaurant it is, with tiling designed by Studio GdB, a wavy carrot-orange bar and squiggly mirrors – the chef and her tacolytes provide a feast for both your eyes and your taste buds… As the tortilla roller machine pumps out fresh, nixtamalized corn tortillas, we dove straight into familiar Latina territory: frijoles refritos (refried black beans), prepared with tahini and smoked chilies, into which we dipped some tip-top charcoal totopos (corn chips); epic elote, aka grilled corn on the cob slathered in jalapeño mayonnaise; a chipotle quesadilla filled with cow’s milk tomme cheese and puréed beans seasoned with epazote (a Mexican herb), topped with guacamole and cilantro; before tacos galore, including an incredible taco al pastor made with pork shoulder marinated with guajillo chilies, chipotle Meco, pineapple juice and achiote, or even a vegan version that combined cabbage, hibiscus flowers and mustard seeds. Then, to cleanse the palate of all that chili, a Jenga tower of churros sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. // Scotty Lard 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Mesoamerican distillates that bring a little Aztec flavor to your shot glasses (El Destilador pure agave tequila at €6 or Madre mezcal at €11), a classic margarita (€10) and signature cocktails (like their Paloma that combines tequila, grapefruit, lime, agave syrup and sparkling water, €11), along with homemade hibiscus agua fresca (€4). 
PRICE: : Tacos and quesadillas from €12 to €17.90 for three or four, sides €4.90 to €9, desserts €5.50. 

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