If you’d kept your boca shut during your high school Spanish classes, you’d know that Comer only has eyes for your stomach! After running various pop-ups and delighting tacophiles with takeaway kits for three years, the Mexican chef Carlos Moreno, born in Tabasco (you can’t make this stuff up), decided to settle down with his tortilla press in tow at this spot with less than loco decor (immaculate walls, blonde wood details, a white tiled bar). From his laboratory that opens out onto the dining room, he dabbles in popular dishes inspired by fondas mexicanas. For us, the other day: roasted leeks topped with jocoque (a sort of Hispanic labneh) and macha sauce; spicy red kuri squash smothered in mole; impressive shredded beef tamed by a quality tortilla; and finally, a simplistic yet still exquisite chocolate flan for dessert. Want more? The chef still wraps up and sells his tortillas to go. // Noël Flantier

FEELING THIRSTY? A michelada like you’d get south of the border (beer, lemon, Tabasco and Maggi sauce, €9) or one of the wines from the (short) list, like Jajatoès, a Gard white from the Domaine du Petit Oratoire (€6 a glass, €29 a bottle).
PRICE: Menu €28, à la carte €30-35.