Chez Michel

Rafters on the ceiling, plastic lobsters, a big fresco of Honfleur, copper pots… “Everything moves and nothing changes!” Or vice versa… Now busy with his new life as a baker, delivering his bread on a cargo bike, Thierry Breton has handed over the reins of his old-fashioned Provencal restaurant to Masahiro Kawai (ex-Camdeborde). Fret not, you can still expect the same museum-like classics as before: winkles to get the meal started, fish soup, kig ar farz (a Breton version of pot-au-feu) and some more elitist products (Scottish grouse with foie gras and chanterelles) as add-ons. For us, the day we went for lunch: punchy sautéed chanterelles with serrano ham in a rich jus; striking beef tongue in a bouillon pimped out with red wine, creamy polenta and broccoli; and a generous homemade Paris-Brest with lots of praline butter cream. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Only good things: a round Ventoux white from the Château Landra (€7), a solid Saumur-Champigny from the Chancelles (€5), a Saint-Péray from Bernard Gripa (€48 a bottle) or a very drinkable Peu Muleau, a Bourgueil from the Domaine de La Chevalerie (€30).

PRICE: Set menus €29-35 (lunch) and €38 (dinner).