In the kitchens of this ageless taverna (XL rafters, timeworn tiling, nautical paintings), Masahiro Kawai carefully treads in the tracks left behind by Thierry Breton, who has definitively left the restaurant he founded. After working for Yves Camdeborde, the Japanese chef brilliantly continues his chef/baker bistronomic Tour de France. For us, the day we went for lunch: a roaring fish soup spiced with chorizo and powerful Parmesan; a Far North kig ha farz (the Breton cousin of the classic pot-au-feu) – smoking hot broth filled with rich roasted pork belly, tender beef cheeks and shank, crisp vegetables, plus buckwheat and caramelized onion shortbread crackers; before some Basque cake under a crown of stewed damson plums for an unexpectedly tender conclusion to this feast. You can expect the same royal treatment at night! // M.J.-D.
FEELING THIRSTY? The wine selection is filled with beautiful players: a Minervois white from Sandrine Courjan (€5.50 a glass), a Fleurie from Les Graillot (€46 a bottle), an Alsatian Riesling from Vincent Fleith (€49)…
PRICE: Set menus €22-26 (lunch), and €38 (dinner). À la carte €41-70.
