Billili has been sillily making us trip over our tongues since 2018. The fault lies with Thomas Brachet and Tristan Renoux, the two clowns behind Les Arlots, who came up with the name for their outstanding second restaurant (stone walls, wood floors, shelves full of tantalizing wines) by combining their children’s first names. In short, it’s an authentic, joyful spot for drinking a pot of wine with friends and breaking bread with your people. Featured on the blackboard menu the night we went: a presidential country terrine; a flaky pissaladière that was even more opulent than Scarface’s wads of cash, concealing a libertine trio of melted onions, anchovies and olives; lamb sweetbreads like a Himalayan mound with slow-roasted garlic, divinely good chard, homemade chips and an unreasonably delicious jus de viande; before an extra-plump plum clafoutis. // M.J.-D.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s plenty to get jazzed about: an Aix white from the Domaine de Sulauze (€6.50 a glass), a Gaillac red from Grégoire Aubrun (€26 a bottle), a Tavel from Romain Le Bars (€36 a bottle), a delicious and juicy Savoy red from Mathieu Apffel (€30)…

PRICE: À la carte €13-20 (lunch) and €27-48 (dinner).