A spot full of temptations from morning to night! That was the unifying idea from Paul Henri and chef Bertrand Chuveau (ex-Piège, Toutain, Garance), who revamped this neighborhood bar (beautiful tiling, a 1990s pinball machine, a Provendi wall-mounted soap holder, a time-worn zinc-topped bar, a lacquered ceiling, velvet and faux leather), which is something of a shapeshifting space – a cross between an authentic bistro and a moody cocktail bar. The menu however features thoroughly nostalgic bistro classics: Tournedos Rossini, prime rib, Basque-style hake…. The Wednesday we went for lunch, the rotating weekly menu included: fresh and vinegary beet, chervil and toasted buckwheat salad; flavor-packed bucatini with fennel seed meatballs; and a harmonious summer berry ice cream with cat’s tongue cookies! At night, expect small plates with similar vibes: hard-boiled eggs topped with béarnaise mayonnaise; skewered duck hearts; whelks in persillade; their beloved beef fat fries with sweet and spicy sauce algérienne… Things weren’t better in the past! // Will Trippin

FEELING THIRSTY? : Apart from Jupiler beer on tap (€6.50 for a pint), there are natural wines (a Côtes-du-Rhône from Mathieu Barret, a pessac-léognan from the Château Haut-Bergey, a chardonnay from Céline and Laurent Tripoz) starting at €28 a bottle, plus well-made classic cocktails (€11).

PRICE: : Set menu €19-22 (€25 Saturday), à la carte €3-38.