In the bustling Goncourt neighborhood, Adriana and Margot Paternoga are filling up the shelves of this Eastern European épicerie! Run by an exuberant mother-daughter duo, this scarlet red shop (from the storefront to the shelves) is frequented by dozens of regulars each day, seeking out Polish treats: generous eggplant caviar; sensational sausage from Krakow; brilliant boreks filled with sheep’s cheese or eggplant and mushrooms; the house’s famous beef and veal pastramis; or even some tempting herrings in cream sauce, in beetroot sauce or even as rollmops. Take it all to go or stuff it into a generous sandwich (€5-8) at lunchtime, and devour it along the nearby Canal Saint-Martin. // Sophie Fonfek

The hidden gem: The sernik, a traditional lemon or raspberry cheesecake (€3.60 a slice).