Apparently Beyoncé loved the gnocchi when she came for dinner with Jay-Z back in July 2018. It’s true, they are like little pillows of joy in their sage butter (€8) made by the French-Italian chef Iacopo Chomel (ex-Au Passage and Saturne)! Since September 15, 2016, he’s been promoting pleasurable experiences at “Vantre” (antre or “lair” with a “v” for vin or “wine”) without showing off. Served à la carte in his vintage bistro (oak wood floors, round light fixtures, marble tables) the day we went for lunch: steamed and then plancha-grilled octopus with mozzarella and tomato consommé (€16); fillet of plaice roasted in olive oil with broccoli purée, bulgur and strips of lemony fennel (€12) – or pappardelle in a green ragout with oxtail and button mushrooms (€12); before a game of hide and seek with rhubarb confit and gariguette strawberries under a cloud of almond milk mousse (€10) for the playful finale. As for the wines, Marco Pelletier, the former wine man at the Bristol, shows off his 2,000 labels in an encyclopedia filled with gems: 50/50 from the Domaine Gros et Tollot (€7), Jaja du Ben from Ganevat (€42 a bottle), Domaine de La Taille aux Loups (€45), etc. Menus €17-21 (lunch), à la carte €41-59. // J.G.