Not only does Vantre take care of your belly, but it also pampers your gullet thanks to its book of magical wine spells, the most impressive in all the bistrosphere! Inside this Parisian den (oak floors, bistro chairs, vintage light fixtures), sommelier Marco Pelletier (ex-Bristol and Taillevent) keeps an eye on his impressive bottles, while Japanese chef Masaki Nagao (ex-Clarence) carves out ultra-precise plates. Served à la carte the night we went: emblematic gnocchi under a veil of golden sage butter; prodigious crisp asparagus magnified by sea urchin, smoked ricotta and blood orange; an incredible savory pie filled with pigeon and foie gras, paired with a parsnip mousseline and fried artichokes; a lovely, perfectly roasted duck to share, paired with spinach, jus and crisp asparagus; before a somewhat liquefied dessert of chai crème brûlée paired with vanilla ice cream. The striking lunch menu is also worth a look – eg.: nectarine gazpacho with anchovies and ricotta; plancha-grilled Iberian pluma of pork with smoked potato purée and red peppers; chocolate mousse with strawberries and a rosemary ice cream. // M.J.-D. and A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are over 5,000 beautiful organic bottles to choose from: an Arbois white from Jérôme Arnoux (€8 a glass), a Bourgogne red from Caroline Bellavoine (€7), a Sancerre white from the Domaine Denizot (€30 a bottle), a Saint-Joseph red from the Domaine Rouchier (€55)…

PRICE: Set menu €17-21 (lunch), à la carte €41-52.