Candelaria

The gold standard for Parisian speakeasies is still in tip-top shape since opening in 2011. Out front, a tiny taqueria (five seats across from the grill) that sends out good tacos with your choice of chorizo (€3.80) or shredded cod (€4.20), and tangy guacamole (€6.80) … And hidden out back, behind the discreet door at the end of the counter, there’s a big triangular space for lovers of straight-talking cocktails. Where, between distressed stone walls and with ‘80s new wave playing in the background, you’ll see people sipping on the Gimlet Candelaria (Beefeater gin, lemon-ginger cordial, lime, €13), the Domino (Sotol Hacienda de Chihuahua, Ancho Reyes liqueur, Plantation rum, horchata and makgeolli, €12) and even the Lola, a charming mocktail made with grapefruit, lemon, orgeat syrup and fresh mint (€8). DJs on the weekends; brunch on Sundays (€20). // A.B.