A cocktail bar, an oyster shack, a hip tapas spot…. Mary Celeste is probably the finest example of new Parisian eclecticism, in addition to being the coolest spot for a flirtatious evening in the Haut-Marais neighborhood. Run by the young team from Candelaria and Glass, the menu is crafted by Mads Christensen, a sous-chef turned head chef: a carnal hanger steak tartare rebooted with figs, marinated peppers, double cream and homemade sriracha; albacore tuna tataki with kohlrabi purée and currants; lamb tacos, pickled eggplant, cream of sesame and red chilies…. Also served at the bar, oysters dealt out by the piece (€1.80 to €3.80), including the Japanese kumamoto oyster with a deliciously buttery taste, along with Bouzigues or Maldon oysters, gobbled up with nuoc-mâm sauce. Basically everything you could possibly need to wake up your taste buds that have been knocked out by the liquors: the cocktails are obviously excellent (ex: Rise & Shine, with Vida mezcal, licorice liqueur, Ethiopian coffee powder and lemon juice… €12-13) and there are natural wines too (€5 for a glass of Saumur-Champigny from Bruno Dubois). Plates €7-12. Reservations are possible from 6pm to 7:30pm online. // T.L.G.