At the top of the top is Maison Verot… They’re to thank for bringing pâté en croûte into the modern era – even inventing a banh mi version with Céline Pham. Currently run by Gilles, the father, and Nicolas, his son, their five Parisian boutiques bring a little sunshine to the Parisian deli scene: try their legendary pâté en croûte with duck, figs and foie gras (€9.50 for 150 g), some graphically pleasing pig’s head made with Perche pork, pig’s tongue and pistachios (€11.20 for 250 g), tender Bigorre cochon noir pork rillettes (€13 for 200 grams), or some classic ham in flaky pastry (€7.30 for 250 g). The family also serves incredible saucisson from Maison Conquet in Laguiole (€13.50 for 280 g), and for vegetarians, some lovely spinach-carrot-leek-artichoke-tomato terrines (€10.60 for 200 g). // J.P.

Hidden gem: The L’Oreiller de la Belle Aurore, an XXL pâté en croûte made with game, poultry, veal and morel mushrooms (€25 for 250 g slice).