What better ambiance for this yatai (shop) than the steamy energy bubbling over from the Marché des Enfants Rouges? Seated at the bar of this sedentary caravan, come for fragrant bowls of Japanese purity, served on the double and prepared with meticulous care by contortionist chefs. There’s a handful of options: crispy vegetable tempura; juicy pumpkin and shrimp croquettes; small karaage chicken nuggets; exquisite salmon or vegetable maki for incorrigible sushi-lovers – while hungry, hurried diners opt for one of the emblematic bento boxes (with tonkatsu breaded pork, grilled pork and strips tender stewed sukiyaki beef). // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Less impressive drinks than the sushim despite patriotic sencha and geimacha green teas or Kirin beer (€3).

PRICE: Mains €13.50 to €15.50. Set menus €12.50 to €15.50. Sides €2.80 to €3.80.