Adios lattes and pan con tomate! A year after spicing up Rue Charlot with their lively little coffee shop, the Aymerich clan (Tom, Adrien and Héléna Martin) are turning up the heat just 20 meters down the street with a muy caliente neighborhood eatery. Picture cream-colored walls, bistro tables, a zinc-topped wooden bar and genuinely warm service. In the kitchen, Spanish chef Cecilia Munguira, trained in Lisbon, sets the tempo with a menu that snaps like castanets, where classic Spanish apéro bites (top-notch cecina de León, ultra-tender tortilla) mingle with clever twists on tradition, like ajo blanco revisited with spinach. That evening, we enjoyed: top-quality anchovies, ensaladilla rusa jazzed with capers and ventresca; incredibly tender grilled octopus drizzled in txistorra sauce, paired with papas aliñás (potato salad) and samphire, just like in Cádiz; and, for the finale, a decadent torrija (Spanish-style French toast) crowned with a cloud of indecently good whipped cream, or a deeply chocolatey olive oil mousse. ¡Ay ay ay! · Madeleine Proust

FEELING THIRSTY? Iberian-style drinks, from natural wines (a white And The Winner Is… from Celler Credo at €7 a glass, or a red Sang de Corb from Celler Frisach at €54 a bottle) to beers (a caña of San Miguel at €4 for 200 ml) and clásicos cocktails (Santander vermouth as an apéritif €7 a glass).

PRICE: Tapas €5-9, appetizers €8-12, mains €19-26, desserts €9.