The story: Some hotels try very hard to tell a story. Others simply have one. Standing proudly on Place du Forum, Nord-Pinus belongs firmly to the latter camp. Since the 1950s, this Arles institution has welcomed a steady parade of artists, writers, photographers, bullfighters and other luminaries passing through the Camargue. Jean Cocteau was a regular, Picasso rubbed shoulders with the locals, Lucien Clergue entertained friends here and the feria festivities alone have generated enough material for several novels. Then came Maja Hoffmann, the influential contemporary art patron, who oversaw an ambitious restoration without sanding away any of the hotel’s soul. Behind the almond-green shutters, twenty or so rooms still radiate that slightly theatrical southern elegance, all precious fabrics, Camargue flourishes and golden light spilling across the facades of the square. The story of place that turns a weekend away into a story you’ll still be telling years later. Double rooms from €137 per night. · Edgar Enpomaluile
Breakfast: Served in the restaurant and designed for appetites of all sizes. The full version (€24) includes hot drinks, fruit juice, muesli, pastries from Le Sauvage bakery, bread with whipped butter and Camargue honey or jam, plus your choice of avocado toast, ham and Comté croque monsieur or eggs. A lighter option (€9) is also available, minus the muesli and savory dishes.
Toiletries: Végétalement Provence body wash, shampoo and conditioner, plus Marius Fabre soap.
Little luxury: Take a seat at Le Cintra bar towards the end of the day and watch the light fade over Place du Forum, just as the night-owls who built the hotel’s legend once did.
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