Huge mirrors, Murano glass sconces, crisp white tablecloths, ceramic tiles inspired by Van Gogh’s Starry Night, cast-iron radiators once used as plate warmers… Since Maja Hoffmann (Luma, Les Maisons d’Arles) took the helm of the legendary Nord-Pinus hotel, the place has regained its glow, now shining with understated elegance thanks to interiors curated by Anglo-Nigerian designer Duro Olowu. To complete this pretty little dish, the aesthete handed the kitchen keys to Antonio Altamura, whose stella CV boasts stints alongside Iñaki Aizpitarte and Giovanni Passerini, as well as residencies at Drum Café and Mazarpane in Rome. At lunch, the cuoco conducted a sunny score of Italian and southern French flavors: tangy cauliflower, beetroot and carrot giardiniera paired with a generous slab of chicken terrine and smoked anchovies; comforting pumpkin ravioli glistening in a wickedly good sage butter, brightened with preserved lemon and shaved truffles (for a supplement); and, to finish, a downright drool-worthy cannoli filled with ricotta, Sicilian clementine, ginger and star anise. Bravi! · Marcellin Caillou

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines from France and Italy priced to impress, like Signature, a locally made white from Domaine Attilon (€9 a glass) or Carat, a Venetian skin-contact white from Bressan Mastri Vinai (€125 a bottle). What else? Miss’Isle beer from L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (7 € for a 330 ml IPA) and signature cocktails, including a neo-gin fizz alchemizing organic gin, verbena, elderflower syrup and lemon (14 €).
PRICE: Snacks and appetizers €3.50 to €18, mains €18-29, cheeses and desserts €9-12.