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Achterland

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Some secrets are just too good to keep… Elies Theunis’s (ex-Night Shop) is tucked away in the Leuven countryside, in a charming corner building opposite Wijgmaal station, where calm, comfort and good food come naturally. Weathered wooden floors, butter-yellow French doors, a shaded terrace wild with foliage and an unmistakable stay-a-while atmosphere all add to the appeal of a talented team rounded out by Lobke Torfs (also ex-Night Shop). The real secret lies in the kitchen, where deceptively simple dishes emerge looking effortlessly elegant and refreshingly honest. Take the perfectly balanced caponata, striking just the right note between sweet and sharp, coating tender new potatoes with plump burrata and fresh basil, topped with a single pickled wax bean and served alongside toasted, olive oil-drizzled sourdough from Desem in Rotselaar; or the slow-cooked lamb focaccia with olive and almond salsa, tzatziki, white cabbage and pickled carrots. If anyone asks, you didn’t hear it from us! · Helmut Biscotti

Feeling thirsty? Lobke keeps the drinks list short, beautifully balanced and full of natural character: Frauen Power, a German white from Alanna Lagamba (€7 a glass, €42 a bottle), local cider from Most (€9 for 375 ml) or Cantillon gueuze (€11 for 375 ml). There are plenty of tempting softs too, including a white tea and thyme lemonade finished with a squirt of homemade ginger-lemon syrup (€5 a glass).

Price: Dishes €14-€20 (lunch) and €23-€30 (dinner), sandwiches €8, pastries €3.50-€4.50, desserts €8-€12.

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