Chez Odette

Chez Odette (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil)

© Chez Odette

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After reinventing the art of the sandwich in Bordeaux (Les Concombres), Charly Mabileau is back with his sweetheart Juliette, cooking up good things at the family winery. In the old house where grandma Odette kept the winery’s workers well fed, the couple prepares a sensational menu remixing local products. During our lunch, seated in the beautiful raftered dining room with an original fireplace and a windowed open kitchen: a lovely reinterpretation of the classic jambon-beurre sandwich, with big croutons topped with seaweed butter, marinated pork loin ham and a euphoric little seaweed and shallot salad; cod with spring onion oil lounging over a bed of new potatoes marinated with citrus zest, a handful of fried onions, and some addictive creamed confit garlic as a sort of mayo. To sweeten the feast, there was an adorable white chocolate and tarragon ganache atop pound cake dotted with fresh raspberries. At night, the menu features a few robust mains (cuttlefish with jus de viande and chanterelles). Odette couldn’t have done any better herself. // Thomas Jossin 

FEELING THIRSTY? : The Mabileau wines at winery prices (bottles from €22 and €36, and a glass of Saint-Nicolas-Bourgueil, Les Coutures, at €6), in addition to a sharp selection of natural wines made by friends: Contre-Courant a muscadet from François Ménard (€35 a bottle), Cuvée du P’tit Prince, a Jura red from Julien Crinquant (€60).  
PRICE: : À la carte €40-50.  

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