It’s already been 20 years since Julien Pougnant began quenching people’s thirst in Saumur, from the local aesthetes to wine-loving tourists! At his wine shop with a vermilion storefront, the wild beasts of the Loire department roar (Guiberteau, Fosse-Sèche, Morantin, Courault), along with those from elsewhere (Binner in Alsace, Tissot in the Jura, Béru in Burgundy…). And while browsing the selection lined up on the big wooden shelves the other day, we discovered a few rarities (like the incredible 2021 puligny-montrachet from Renaud Boyer at €85) and a few hard-to-find vintages (a muscat from Alexandrie Supernova from the Danjou-Banessy winery in the Roussillon, €18.50), plus some well-chosen champagnes (Savart, Lassaigne, Agrapart). And if you’re hungry, Julien has a spot for you at his cave à manger next door, where you can dine on salmon gravlax, pork trotter salad or escargots. // Gwen Jacquère. 

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Ciel Rouge 2019, a chenin from Michel Autran (€24).