What’s chef and antique dealer Philippe Gérard’s cardinal sin? Gluttony, of course, which he celebrates at Le Confessionnal nears the banks of the Meuse River, with dishes that are as hearty as those grandma used to make for Sunday lunch. The decor, busy but fitting with the theme, mixes rustic (antique ceremonial ovens, checkered tablecloths, old-fashioned soup tureens) and religious artifacts in good measure. On the menu, you’ll find the top of the food pyramid: extremely tender slow-cooked lamb shoulder, roasted seasonal vegetables and divine confit garlic; or generous supreme of fattened chicken with dauphine potatoes and morel mushrooms in a vin jaune sauce that was more golden than the pope. This place simply oozes terroir, and tastes like it too, and there’s plenty for leftovers the next day – if you manage to stop gobbling it all up, that is. // Jean Gourmand

FEELING THIRSTY? Holy wines: a Haut-Médoc from the Domaine du Vatican (€39 a bottle) and a Rhone red from Nathalie Reynaud at the Domaine de L’Abbé Dîne (€34) or, less orthodox but still very conventional, La Fleur du Belge, a Pays d’Oc Chardonnay from Pierre Henri (€6 a glass).

PRICE: À la carte €48-56.