This wine bar located by the cable car could have been named Vino Vino Vino Vino Vino, for the walls are chock-full of bottles, and the menu is as long as the list of side effects of the contraceptive pill. Therefore, the easiest way to go about things is to seek advice from Marc Detraux, the manager. Firstly, because it is frankly fascinating to hear him describe the specific features of a tiny bit of forgotten terroir, and secondly because he knows exactly what he has in store, and adapts to your personal tastes, be you a one-off drinker or a lifelong regular. The proof, if proof were needed: nobody raised an eyebrow when we ordered a kir royal (but it was made with Désiré Petit Jura crémant and a Burgundy crème de cassis), followed by Queue de Pressoir, a segalin and malbec mix from Clos d’Audhuy, neighbor to Matthieu Cosse in Cahors. All that, paired with the house tinned tuna (€15) and duck rillettes (€10). // Heloise Bartsoen

THE HIDDEN GEM: Les Grandes Brières, a Saint-Pourçain red from the Domaine des Bérioles (€20.60 or €38 opened in house).