Where is Joseph Cassart’s pays, or land? Here, inside this intimate 10-seater neo-bistro. Having trained at Arabelle Meirlaen in Marchin, among others, he christened his own principality on Rue des Brasseurs in 2021. Passionate, independent and nearly self-sufficient, Joseph runs his stronghold alone, singing the praises of local produce like it were his national anthem – all his supplies are sourced locally from friends. That evening, the four-course menu powered out the kitchen stress-free, but with military force: technical appetizers with goat’s cheese at the center, featuring crackers, hummus and a spinach coulis; oregano brioche with slow-roasted carrots, pearl barley salad and pickled red beets for the a crazily good starter; celeriac roasted to perfection, Namur lentils, cabbage and tender Belgian bacon in a black garlic jus; and an impressive white chocolate caramel tatin with almond biscuit, lemon balm and lavender-infused apple water to finish. The menu rotates monthly, scrupulously following the seasons, in this Petit Pays that’s anything but flat. // Jessica Fletcher

FEELING THIRSTY? A dozen natural and organic wines, including a white from Abruzzo by Agricola Estroversa (€33 a bottle) or the highly-drinkable Séléné, a Beaujolais-Villages from Sylvère Trichard (€53), glasses €6.

PRICE: Menus €37, €45 and €75 (with aperitif, water, pairings, tea or coffee and after-dinner liqueur).