Manolo Madrid

In his kitchen surrounded by a large counter exhibiting all his fare, Luis Manuel « Manu » Garcia does exactly what he’s always wanted to do: work alone, at his own pace, and offer the specialties of a country (Spain) that his parents left so he could have a real job (like, in an office, with a nice pen and all the accompanying comforts). Instead, the heavy hitters from Manu’s menu are tattooed on his arms (Iberian pork and octopus). As for the rest, consult the back wall, which is covered in Asturian specialties: pardina lentils con compango (a mix of chorizo, pancetta and morcilla); morcilla negra de Tinea (black pudding, but better) lying atop cinnamon apples; maddeningly good beef cheeks deglazed with brandy (not Cognac!), rounded off with some Pedro Ximénez; sensational prawns with ajillo and langoustine fumet; and a lemony Catalan cream. And forget soggy tortillas or patatas bravas dripping in mayo: while there are laughs aplenty, the quality of the products is no laughing matter. // Héloïse Bartsoen

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s no menu – simply ask and the boss advises depending on your preferences and on what he happens to have gotten his hands on: Coto de Hayas, a red Campo de Borja, or Pazos de Ulloa, a white ribeiro (€26 a bottle), as well as homemade sangria (€9 a glass) and San Miguel beer (€5), just like over there.
PRICE: Plates €9-28, desserts €9