Antoine Stoffel, alias Maître Corbeau, has sunk his talons into one hell of a cheese shop! Not only does he import cheese from France, Italy and Austria, he also works directly with local farms and has maturing rooms for refining cheeses on site. Raised on a diet of raw milk from a tender age, the boss learned the ropes making Herve AOP, before swapping it for a van to do the rounds at local markets. And at his well-stocked roadside counter in Bouge: tempting fourme de Montbrison, fresh goat’s cheese with Camargue fleur de sel from the Domaine des Gachons in the Allier, the marvelous Swiss Après-soleil, fruity and crystallized like a Comté, and matured in house. And with Maître Corbeau, the song he sings matches the plumage of his wings, so the cellar also ages mainly Jura or Savoyard wines, amassed during visits to his cheese-making buddies. Note: the MC has another stinky nest near Nil-Saint-Vincent. // Jessica Fletcher

THE HIDDEN GEM: The very smelly and very runny alpine taleggio (€30.30 per kg).