Three words to describre Nage? Elegant, casual-sophisticated, good karma – undoubtedly due to Niki Van Sant’s serving skills. While the interiors are sober/sombre, Koen Lenaerts (former sous-chef at Veranda and Dôme) really goes all out with the dinner menu: caviar toast and an oyster to whet the palate; shrimp bisque; beetroot-glazed cuttlefish; sea bass with daikon radish, apple, three types of caviar, rhubarb, wild garlic and basil oil, plus smoked carrots in lardo di Colonnata; mushroom duxelles pasta; poached egg with rhubarb mousseline and granita… And don’t forget to try the excellent homemade bread, which is famous in itself! // Juno Madre

FEELING THIRSTY? Clean wines: a Belgian skin contact pinot gris from Drap (€52 a bottle), Lumière des Sens, a Loire rouge from Robinot (€80), and a red Marbera from Corti Cugini in Lombardy (€45).

PRICE: À la carte €59-81 (lunch), menu €75 (dinner), food and wine pairing €39.