Not content with having attracted half of Paris to his wine bar (Le Verre Volé), Cyril Bordarier, the godfather of natural wines, dreamt up the spot of the century for a quick bite to eat, here at his “épicerie” – pixelated tiling, Mondrain-esque shelving, Art Deco lighting. Run with precision since 2012, his sandwiches are composed with products selected from the jam-packed fridges: farmhouse saint-nectaire cheese, burrata, turkey pastrami from Michel Kalifa, Gascon coppa, Prince de Paris ham, stuffed cabbage from the Ferme de Mayrinhac, salted and toasted almonds like you’d get in Spain… And the day we went for lunch, it was sandwiches for everyone! The crispy bread from Maison Landemaine was cut open for us and filled with a clever combination of plump zucchini, pale ham and delicious stracciatella, and it was so damn delicious! For anyone struggling to make a decision, the blackboard menu of the day offers up a few cheat codes: the classic trinity of baked ham, Comté and cornichons, or taramasalata, beets, cucumber and dill. And what about dessert? There’s Bordier rice pudding or yogurt. // Jean Pascal
THE HIDDEN GEM: Really good Noir de Bigorre ham, with decadent notes of hazelnut (€90/kg).
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