In the kitchen of this deeply vintage bistro (a giant zinc-topped bar, bright yellow Formica, mirrored walls), chef Sokunthear Vong (ex-Leroy in London) puts a colorful twist on the taste of the times with his extremely well-crafted plates. Featured on the lunch menu the day we went for lunch: an excellent combo of oeuf mayonnaise, raw pointy cabbage and bottarga; comforting rigatoni Bolognese intensified by piment d’Espelette; before an incredible apple crumble paired with a vanilla-heavy crème anglaise. At night, Sok treats the crowds to small plates: risotto with clams and dill; fried veal sweetbreads with a tamarind sauce; skate with a beurre blanc sauce and smashed potatoes; roasted caillette with homemade yogurt and a spicy condiment… // O.J.

FEELING THIRSTY? A daily selection of natural wines scribbled out onto the big mirror: a Loire Gamay from Thierry Puzelat (€6 a glass), a Burgundy Melon from La Soeur Cadette (€7), a Morgon from Jean Foillard (€36 a bottle)…

PRICE: Menu €19-22.50 (lunch), small plates €2.50 to €14.