Lissit

In addition to shortening his last name for this new venture, the chatty Alexis Lissitzky (who used to work at Soces) has set Kokotte back on the right track, transforming it into an anything-but-dull bistro in the 11th arrondissement. Within these deliberately weathered walls, Claire Grumellon (ex-Vaillant) single-handedly orchestrates her cheeky feasts, sending them out on vintage tableware from the tiny kitchenette. The other night, savored by candlelit, we had all of the following: a hearty baked endive gratin with blue cheese from Fromagerie Fernin, brightened with fresh herbs, plus some divine orange butter and still-warm bread from Fermentation Générale; tender Roman-style tripe with homemade gnocchi bathed in jus de viande with a smoky barbecued flavor; comforting cassoulet featuring homemade duck confit and pork sausage, flageolet beans in tomato sauce so good we could eat it forever, plus a delicate breadcrumb topping; before a memorable sweet pithiviers pie for dessert, filled with almond paste and topped with some lemon marmalade so good it should be illegal! // Angela Dolu

FEELING THIRSTY? Around 50 bottles of natural wine to choose from (Carambouille, a Gard red from Les Vignerons d’Estézargues at €8.50 a glass, Jaja, a jacquère from Caroline Ledédenté at €45 a bottle), plus an incredible collection of vermouth (Vimut from Finca Parrera in Catalonia at €8 for 80 ml) and even a non-alcoholic amaro from Iessi (€7 for 80 ml).
PRICE: : Plates €8-19.