We’re getting our sea legs in Montreuil, where Guillaume Gréaud and Simon Turmel (both of whom used to work at Poiscaille), in addition to Yannick Costa (the former chef at Les Arlots) opened up this rain-jacket-yellow shop. On their stands, you’ll find very fresh and very ethically sourced seafood, caught by fishermen on boats that measure less than 12 meters in length, who use sustainable practices off the French Coast. Their stock includes clams, oysters and abalone, along with fish so fresh it’s practically still wiggling around on the ice: line-caught hake, cuttlefish from Saint-Jean-de-Luz, grey sea bream, octopus caught off the coast of Port-la-Nouvelle… And for all those who don’t know their way around a kitchen, there are a few salads (like the mussels in pesto), hake brandade, a scallop roe terrine and an octopus bun bo xao. This place is a true pearl! // Albert Gredinbar

Hidden gem: The hake steak from Saint-Jean-de-Luz stuffed with shallots, parsley, garlic and olive oil, which you pan-fry (€6).