On the chalkboard menu, Marseillaise Delphine Auffret (ex-Titulus) scribbles down wines to suit her naturalist mood: Radice, an orange wine from Vino Lauria (Sicily), a Grundstein Riesling from Nibiru (Kamptal, Austria), or Après la Pluie, an Anjou red from Simon Rouillard… But what she hasn’t written down is the loooooooooooooooooooooo list of winegrowers who watch over Le Bain des Dames: Ganevat, Overnoy, Bobinet, Barral, Arena and Carmarans, among others. And what about the snacks? You’ve got Alexis Louvencourt (ex-Graam) cooking up all things from the south of France: crispy fried smelt; panisses; octopus stew, potatoes and taggiasche olives; or grilled mussels with guanciale (small plates from €6.50 to €16, glasses from €5 to €11). Can you hear the cicadas singing on the tiny Klein blue terrace? The organic pastis from Lachanenche artisanal distillery (€4 a glass) might have something to do with that! // Cléo Popina
THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Nimbus Albus, a golden white Greek wine from Dimitrios Kioutsoukis (€41).
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