After floating in the beer foam at Le Barboteur, Sébastien Albanese decided to switch it up with fermented grape juices at Achille on Place Collignon. In the same bottoms-up spirit, we empty everything drinkable from Supernaturals, Seb’s wine importers in Tour & Taxis, and gobble up everything edible directly from the kitchen run by chefs Tara Perraudin and Anthony Elbaz (ex-Gramm). That night, we had: a big burrata from Puglia surrounded by roasted carrots and drizzled in a blood orange harissa vinaigrette; cauliflower caramelized in sesame oil and cauliflower cream with ginger butter – enough to turn you vegetarian; before ending the meal with a well-structured lamb tataki served with wilted Swiss chard, pine nut praline and XO sauce. // Edgard Glass

FEELING THIRSTY? A boozy tour of Europe: a red Ephraim from Sipher (€3.80 a glass), Vibria Soul, a skin-contact Catalan white from the same estate (€25.40 a bottle), a Languedoc red from Sophie Valin and François Aubry (€20 ), or Szolo, a Hungarian tokaji (€39).

PRICE: Starters €3.80 to €16, mains €9-16, dessert €8.50.