Some people navigate by the stars, the Bodivit brothers cook by them. Bretons born and bred, Anthony (at L’Astrolabe) and Benoît (ex-La Villa Lorraine) keep a steady course between Concarneau and the European capital. And at Nocturlabe, Benoît has certainly found his cruising speed in an intimate spot where an open kitchen and ocean-blue walls make the perfect setting for a cozy tête-à-tête. On the plate, the voyage continues with two Breizh-friendly tasting menus anchored by sauces that taste as though they’ve been whipped up by the Atlantic itself. On our visit: flame-seared marsh langoustine, daikon maki, langoustine tartare and broad bean stew, all brought together by an intensely briny elixir made from butter-sautéed shellfish claws, tomato concentrate and fragrant aromatics; artichoke with grapefruit and wakame; the humble carrot treated with all the reverence of a Sunday roast; and to finish, cabbage wrapped around rich chocolate cream with clementine espuma and sesame. · Didon Bury

Feeling thirsty? Nahida, the chef’s ever-smiling partner, steers the drinks list with conviction, championing organic and biodynamic bottles like Ô De Craie, a johanniter by Vin de Liège (€63 a bottle), and Jurassique, a Saumur blanc from Domaine Le Pas Saint-Martin (€69). Alternatively, there’s mead (€10 a glass) and a small but slicker-than-your-average selection of beers, including La Classe Américaine IPA (€7).

Price: Tasting menus €60-€70 (vegetarian) and €70-€85.