Auprès du clocher

With such impressive resumes, you can rest assured in the knowledge that David Maurin (the owner and sommelier) and Rémi Genot (the chef) aren’t messing around: Loiseau, Lameloise, Chapeau Rouge, Greuze, Caves Madeleine in Burgundy, Cheval Blanc in Courchevel, Pyramide in Vienne…. That’s enough experience to tick off the fine dining box without any false modesty! When we paid this two-story restaurant (hardwood floors and light oak tables, greige chairs) a visit, the €49 prix-fixe menu featured: a subtle balance between fresh and smoked trout from Grisenon (a fishery in the Yonne department), paired with cucumber, trout roe and a lovely marigold-passionfruit condiment; sautéed Morvan pork loin with a rich reduction, figs, shallot chutney and a tasty cone of potatoes with smoked bacon; and to end the meal, a stunning fruit and cacao composition that struck a perfect balance – wild blackberries and a Timut pepper coulis, chocolate ganache and cream, plus a chocolate tuile. A stunner of a dessert, much like for the unusual amuse-bouches and petits fours, all of which were true miniature flavor bombs. // Adrien Nouvaire

FEELING THIRSTY? Of the 300 labels that make up the wine collection, you can savor a few prime vintages served by the glass (€9-19) – a Puligny-Montrachet from Morel or a Savigny-lès-Beaune from Bize, both from 2017 – or by the bottle, including Sextant, an Aligoté from Altaber (€38), a Meursault from Henri Germain (€85), a Burgundy red from Athénaïs de Béru (€45), and, of course, Les Pézerolles 2002, a Pommard from the Domaine De Montille (€280). 
PRICE: Set menus €49 (lunch), €70 and €80 (dinner).