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La Cave du Centre

La Cave du Centre (Chagny)

© Aaron Ayscough

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Get that undrinkable swill away from me! Not content with writing his cool wine blog, Not Drinking Poison, a go-to reference for his American readership, publishing a 440-page primer on the subject (The World of Natural Wine), and importing bottles from Eastern Europe, the tenacious Aaron Ayscough is once again making waves – this time with a fabulous cave à boire et à manger in the heart of Chagny, a small village just 15 minutes outside of Beaune. Come take a closer look: a charmingly old-fashioned, varnished wood storefront, a handful of tables, a white-tiled bar and, best of all, a fiercely unconventional selection of wines in a region deeply rooted in traditional winemaking. Standout bottles by indie producers include Ouverture, an Aligoté produced by Arnaud Chapuis in Burgundy (€29), Château Roulant, a gamay from Benoît Camus (€16) or the exquisite Pirouette, a 1999 carignan from the Hérault department’s Fontedicto winery (€69)… You’ll also find brews from the local American diaspora, including craft beers from Vif (€3.50 for 330 ml) and exceptional java roasted by Matt McClune of St. Romain Coffee (€3 for a cup of pour-over). He also cooks up a dish of the day for around €15-16 (rigatoni al ragù, pot-au-feu-style chicken, etc.) and serves a few lighter snacks – think slices of Spanish tortilla (€6), duck miso soup (€8), or Iberian ham plates (€12)… // Pascal Diagonale

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