Thanks be to Jan Lemaire! It was due to his influence that Le Borze, which has been something of a sleeping beauty for the last 20 years, rediscovered its former glory: gilded ceilings, olive green walls, “unknown white men” paintings, hardwood floors, polished wood tables, a majestic Victoria Arduino espresso machine given pride of place atop the bar… A truly atmospheric bistro, where Helena Paris and Oona Bovri serve artisan Apalhat charcuterie from Les Monts de Lacaune high up in the Tarn department, alongside crispy bread from the Domestic bakery and farm-fresh butter, followed by classic homemade carbonade Flemish stew and by-the-book vol-au-vent, with fries and homemade mayonnaise. And to complete this tableau, a dame blanche (aka vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and chocolate sauce) for dessert. // Kiko Zushi

FEELING THIRSTY? Local Cidernations hard cider (€5.50), Chimay lager on tap (€3.80), old-fashioned 3 Fonteinen gueuze beer (€12 for 375 ml), Vallée des Aigles, a Languedoc orange wine from the Domaine Serodes & Kovac (€8.50 a glass) or Espresso Borzini (a cocktail made with espresso and Chartreuse, €12).
PRICE: Charcuterie €18, mains €18-23, desserts €9-12.