Following in the footsteps of chef Magalie Verbaet and her sorely missed restaurant Ossip is no small feat! Yet chef Frederik Michiels (ex-Superette and Meteor) and sommelier Thea Cipido (ex-Nage) have pulled it off perfectly, taking over this tiny little spot with its royal blue facade still intact. As the former works the (copper) pots and pans in the open kitchen, the latter darts about between the marble-topped bistro tables, armed with bottles that, once empty, line the shelves as trophies. On the menu made for sharing: creamy white beans and Bull’s Horn peppers, mopped up with sourdough bread from Bloemberen; artichoke halves paired with a top-notch aioli for dipping; and green and yellow French beans from Oogstappel farm, topped with apricots, pecorino and almonds, all glistening in a pear vinaigrette — which we opted for over the signature dish of local organic chicken breast aged in hay, then grilled over binchotan charcoal, with mashed potato and mushrooms fresh from the field. And for dessert? Tarte tatin with a dollop of crème d’Isigny, no contest! Long live Klee! · Coco Bianca

FEELING THIRSTY? There are no pesky sulfites interfering with Thea’s selection, which includes Le Petit Beaufort, a sparkling Burgundy from Alice and Quentin Beaufort (€10 a glass), and Les Pouches, a Saumur red from La Porte Saint Jean (€74 per bottle). Going nolo? There’s Figa kombucha (€6) or Antidote, a mix of grape juice and herbal tea by the Domaine des Grottes.

PRICE: Menu €38 (lunch), plates €9-30.